The Story Behind Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Watches
The Airboss series of watches by Victorinox Swiss Army has been a popular cog in the company’s product line. Named after the officer in charge of an aircraft carrier’s flight deck, Airboss watches are aviation inspired, but not necessarily considered pilot watches.
Instead of being tied to a blueprint of pilot watches from history, Airboss watches offered increasingly complicated and quirky design features with an amazing variety of models generation after generation. Swiss Army is currently on version 10 of the series. Below are some typical pilot watches that come to mind in the pilot genre.
Swiss Army Airboss Mach 1 - The First of the Breed
Given the variety of later models, it might be surprising to find the first Airboss was somewhat “normal”. The most radical feature of this model was the bright yellow painted hands. I never realized why such a bright color was used until I read that human air bosses on aircraft carriers often wear bright yellow shirts to stand out in the color coded world of naval aviation. It makes perfect sense now.
As a play on words, each new Airboss version of the series was designated with a Mach number instead of Mark number. It is common knowledge that “mach” is used the show how fast an aircraft flies relative to the speed of sound. I think that this is pretty clever marketing.
It should also be noted that all of the Airboss models fall under the Swiss Airforce product offshoot of Swiss Army. These could be considered aviation inspired professional watches, arguably of higher quality than some of the consumer models that sold for less money… though all Swiss Army watches are well made in my opinion.
Notable design features of the Airboss Mach 1 include white painted hands with a yellow luminescent material. A sloped chapter ring shows 5-minute increments and adds depth to the matte black dial. The painted numerals have corresponding 24-hour military times. This model has an applied Swiss Army shield without Victorinox in the logo.
The plain bezel was somewhat exposed and took the brunt of nicks and scratches. The case was a modest 40 mm and sported a 21 mm band width. The unsigned crown was functional but not embellished. Overall, this watch was all business without the added complications that the later models had. An automatic version of the Mach 1 was released but was visually similar.
The humble Mach 1 model defined the design language that would be carried consistently through to the Mach 4 watches. After that, Swiss Army started to veer away from this well-explored style into other directions of interest, which were equally compelling.
Swiss Army Airboss Mach 2 - Adding a Countdown Bezel
The Airboss Mach 2 added an uncommon internal countdown bezel, which is different than a diver’s bezel that is set at a starting point to count up the time. To use the countdown feature, the user would line up the intended amount of time (37 minutes in the photo below) to the current minute hand position. When the minute hand reached the yellow triangle on the bezel, the elapsed time was done. This is a useful real world feature. For instance, when the outside temperature is warm and I walk the dogs, I set the bezel for 20 minutes to reduce the risk of overheating my K9 companions. It works great for grilling steaks too.
Swiss Army Airboss Mach 3 - The Ultimate Chronograph
The Airboss Mach 3 upped the ante by adding a 12-hour chronograph complication with 1/10th of a second accuracy. Let me tell you, there is no other watch that I know of that has these many pushers disguised as crowns. The actual crown is recessed at the 9:00 position. The false crown at 3:00 is actually the control to change the internal bezel setting. The date window was moved to the 10:00 position to allow the chronograph subdials to sit next to each other.
Even the chronograph pushers are different from what might be considered the normal position on the right side. They are on the left side of the watch and “reversed” where the lower pusher starts and stops the chronograph and the top one resets it to zero. This means that the user tends to use his thumb instead of a pointer finger to start the chronograph, which actually works better than it sounds. But wait, there is even more!.
Just when you thought they were done, Swiss Army added a surprise to the chronograph in the form of stacked central hands. I will dedicate a whole article to this feature at another time, but essentially there is a 60-minute chronograph in the center register. The white hand ticks off the seconds and the yellow hand ticks off the minutes. This is arguably the most legible type of chronograph to use because it is so large and easy to discern at a glance. The yellow hand hides under the white one when not in use.
So to recap, the Airboss Mach 3 has an internal countdown bezel, a 60-minute central register chronograph, left handed pushers, a 12-hour and a 1/10th of a second subdial. Plus, the lugs have 2 separate sets of holes drilled to accommodate NATO straps, leather watch bands, and metal bracelets. That is a lot of value for your money and insane attention to detail. Some people do not like the fact that there are no ticking seconds unless the chronograph is on, but that might have added another subdial.
Swiss Army Airboss Mach 4 - Less is More
The last model of the Airboss series to have yellow hands was the Mach 4, which went from a quartz movement to a mechanical Unitas 6497-2 movement. The size swelled to 45 mm (from 43 mm), but it retained the internal countdown bezel. A small sweeping seconds subdial was added in the 7:00 position. The subdial hands are a unique 2 sided design. Perhaps this is so you could start timing something sooner (by choosing either end of the hand) or time 2 events at one simultaneously. Again, this shows “outside the box” thinking.
As a cohesive product series, I think that Swiss Army should be commended for elevating the original Airboss Mach 1 design to new heights on their journey all the way to the Mach 4. When they felt like they had done all that they could, they were not afraid to wipe the slate clean and try new things like a GMT Mach 5 and Tachymeter Chronograph Mach 6.
I should also mention, that there were other variations that did not use yellow hands. I believe that is when Swiss Army started to explore variations on the theme. Be on the lookout for more articles on the Swiss Army Airboss watches… they are my favorite models that the brand makes and there is a lot more to this story. I have since sold the original Airboss Mach 1 to make room for the more interesting and complicated Airboss models. It was bittersweet letting it go.